Questions & Answers

Question:

What abbreviations do you use for potentiometers taper?

Answer:

I use the american system: A=Logarithmic, B=Linear, C=Anti Logarithmic, W=first 50% C and last 50% A

Question

What abbreviations do you use for switches?

Answer

4PDT = 4 Pole double throw = always on-on

3PDT = 3 Pole double throw = always on-on and most of the times a footswitch

DPDT = Dual Pole Double Throw = always on-on

DP3T = Dual Pole 3 Throws = on-off-on or on-on-on (or some say on-Z-on).

SPST = Single Pole Single Throw and there is no real difference between on-on and on-off since you can ignore one of the outer lug to make it on-off, I always use on-on since they are cheaper.

SP3T = Single Pole 3 Throws = always on-off-on but these are used seldom and are relatively expensive (if you are able to find them at all). You could better (cheaper) use a DP3T on-off-on.

Question:

What ratings of components do I need?

Answer:

If the effect is only requires 9 Volt then you can stick to components rated for 16V (or higher). If the effect has a chargepump for 18V or you want to use it with a 18V wallwart (when possible!) then use components with a minimum rating of 25V.

Note that especially capacitors get bigger and taller as their ratings and/or capacitance get higher. If height is a potential issue in your build, then look for the smallest possible caps. 

Question:

What type of resistors do you recommend?

Answer:

As a rule of thumb I use 0,6W 1% metalfilm MF0207 resistors (6,5mm x 2,5mm). Some vintage builds use carbon composite (like the Allen Bradley resistors) which are bigger, but you will find instructions in the building instructions of what to use in those cases.

If you prefer you can also use the 1/4W and/or carbon 5% resisotors as most effects do not use more than 10mA. I prefer the 0,6W 1% metalfilm just because they worked in every effect I've ever built and safes me the time of double checking. Also the price difference is minimal.

Question:

My OD/distortion pedal squeals like a pig in higher gain settings, are you sure the PCB is correct?

Answer:

Yes! I had a lot of these questions lately and they all come down to the quality of the off board wiring. You must keep wires as short as possible and try to prevent interference. Might I suggest you use shielded wire and keep the input and output wires as far as possible apart.

If your build has BIAS trimpots, try to rebias the transistors one at the time, starting from the last one in the chain to the first one in the chain.

Besides that, both the factory as well as I always test the PCB's before I sell them.

Question:

What type of input and output jack sockets do I need?

Answer:

I advise using Switchcraft style metal jack sockets. These enable you so have good contact to the metal enclosure and so making sure there is a good ground connection. They look like this:

If you use plastic jacks you will need to connect the ground of the output jack to the ground on the input jack! Plastic is an isolator and will cause your effect to potentially not work at all caused by a missing/bad ground connection.

Question:

Can you make me a kit or pre soldered PCB?

Answer:

Yes, I would love to do that. The only question, as always, is if you think it is worth the extra costs.

I have most components on stock and I only sell brand originals. That means that if you compare it to most Chinese bought components, mine will be more expensive. If costs are your main concern then please order the parts yourself on Ebay or Aliexpress. That way you safe a lot of money! I too had to pay for those components and shipping and I only charge a 5% surplus for my time and extra handeling. If you are a US citizen than maybe Mouser or Digikey will have better quality at better prices.

Also please note that almost all of the cries for help I get are ultimately caused by faulty components, so always triple check your components. As stated before, I am here to help, even if you blew up your effect by using cheap defective components. If I would get a nickel for each mail that starts with "I double checked all components and soldering" I would.... probably have a buck 50.... yeah, I am a smalltimer... but my point is that 95% of those cases are caused by bad soldering, defective components, wrong valued components or any combination of before mentioned causes.

Building and testing a PCB takes on average 3 hours. I charge €10 an hour for labor. With this information you can make a quick calculation to see if it is worth buying a pre-soldered PCB. Also do not forget the price of the components and that bigger PCB's or PCB's with a lot of potentiometers will cost more time and thus more money.

Question:

Making your own clones is always the cheapest way to get a great effect isn't it?

Answer:

Well I kind of gave that a little bit away with my previous answer.... NO!

<dramatic silence>

Between getting a PCB, ordering your parts and putting in the hours soldering, testing and crying, it is often times way more expensive. Ok, do not run away yet... please?? There is an upside to this all!

First of, you will learn a lot. Mostly about yourself and how accurate and stress resistant you are. But also about all the parts that make your magic effect come to life.

Secondly, you can tweak an effect just to your liking and maybe even go outside the realm of the ordinary effect.

But as always there is a yes hidden in the previous no. A lot of mostly vintage effects have such a magical appeal that prices inflated over the years to interstellar heights. The height of those prices are in no relation to the parts used. I mean really... $2500 for a Klon Centaur. Did the last Unicorn spill it's last tear on it before it died playing the wind cries mary with Jimi? Too much, too soon?

Do not get me wrong, it is a great effect, but not worth that amount. So here is the yes part! You can build tons of legendary effects for far less money than then original!

But so can and did the Chinese. Almost every know great effect has been reissued in very cheap versions by Chinese brands. And more often than you think in quite a good way. But also often very bad....

So what is my point? Only build a clone if you want to have that "I built that!" experience and want to show it off (to friends and family). If it makes you feel good and inspires you to make bigger, better music. GO!

If you do it for the money... STOP.

I will bet you that no one really got rich building clone effects. For me too it's a hobby and I most certainly am not a wealthy man.

Only the big well known brands make a good living of of it, but I am sure that they can teach me a lesson or two about what the real hardships are like.

PS If you are a close friend of John Mayer... I noticed there was no Guv'nor on his pedalboard... I'll build him a nice modified and tweaked one :)

Question:

How do I make a clean solder?

Answer:

Have a look at these videos (no that is not me) on how to solder and which tools to use.

Question:

Do you guarantee that the PCB works?

Answer:

Yes! I test every new batch I receive before selling them to make sure they are 100% functioning! Sometimes there may be a small error, like a wrong silkscreen or a missing link. If this was to affect the functioning of the effect, then I will toss them in the bin and make new ones! Else I will update the building instructions on how make these small adjustments. I take a lot of pride in my work and want you to get the best! 

Question:

Will my effect sound exactly the same as an original <your effect here>?

Answer:

Who knows, maybe... maybe not. It all depends on the time you invest and money you spend to build it.

Let's start with the NO part of my answer. Some parts are long obsolete and not obtainable anywhere. If these parts are vital in creating the sound of the effect, then chances are it will not sound 100% the same. Also note that all components have a tolerance which makes no 2 effect sound totally the same although you may sometimes not hear it when you A/B it. Solder quality is also a big part of the sound. If you use to much solder then there is a possibility of shorts. Take your time soldering and when necessary reflowing your soldering!

Now the YES part of my answer. The PCB's are 100% true to schematic (with added optional modifications) and all my building instructions contain the schematic I used to design the PCB. If this schematic matches your expectation then it is 100% electrically correct if used with the original components. Also note that modern substitutions for obsolete parts are sometimes better (sounding) than the originals!

To conclude this rant, you should do some soul searching before building an effect. If your only goal is to get a cheap 100% clone of an original effect, then buy an original to honor the original maker and do not go on the DIY path. You should however start building these PCB's if you are interested in these beautiful originals and want to experiment with the sound of them. Who knows, even alter some components yourself and create your own version. This is how effects evolved through the years! For instance , no tubescreamer is a 100% original design anymore, it is a rehash of a rehash of a rehash of the original. And that is OK!!

Yes, spoiler alert, there is no such thing anymore as a true original analog effect. They are all modified clones of older effects. Some more heavily modified than others. I used the "analog" explicitly on purpose as DSP's are a whole different ballgame.

Also, if you are a true believer in the "magic opamp/parts" then please watch these true guru's and let them show you a righteous path... 

Question:

What is the best diode combination for my <your pedal here> overdrive or my <your other pedal here> distortion

Answer:

I do not have the faintest idea. It all depends on which characteristics you prefer. Different diodes give your (soft)clipping a different characteristic. Again, it is a matter of taste and do not let yourself be fooled to quickly by all the magic diodes out there!

I've built myself a diode test setup so I can try them quickly on a new build. Maybe this will help you decide. It has 6 different setups and one open one to test new combinations. Yes, you can make it even bigger to test asymmetrical clipping... be my guest!

Maybe this YouTube comparison will help you decide (no, there are no magic diodes in this one!)